k heres the deal im doin the b20b vtec and i know i need the ls vtec kit i just got that B16 block and head now dalton said i need to run the b16 timing belt and water pump and do i need to use the head bolts out of the b16 or the b20? and did anyone change the rod bolts or bearing in the motor so it can handel the high revs ? im not goin to chip the ecu so do i need to change the rod bolts and bearings? thanks for your help

ask pauld he just did a couple

Put Arp rod bolts in , b16 timing belts to short use b18c family timing belts,buy a new b series vtec water pump 22 teeth. And u need to get b20 lsvtec head stud kit from arp. N u need the proper lsvtec kit with 84mm gasket for the bigger bore still got some decent money to be spent Freddy

ARP head studs is a must.... I would rethink the not chiping and tuning... you will get more power and will last way longer. I am getting pauld to build me a b20 vtec also and I am for sure going to chip it.

Did you use the blackworks kit or the golden eagle kit? When you do the build try and take a few pics and make a little build thread, I would love to see how it goes.

My plan is to run the bottem end stock for year or two and then upgrade to aftermarket pistons and rods for a little more power. I am sooo excited, I never thought I would need more power then a b16 but It's mostly the torque im after. Good luck dude!

Great link if you wanna go all out and spend a mint, You can pull it off a little cheaper IMO.

ya you could probably do it cheaper but for me the motor is the last place I'd want to cheap out on over anything else on my car

i agree i know a guy who cheaped out and didnt get head studs not mentoining any names and it bit him in the as but everyone makes mistakes but for most of us we cant afford to do it a second time so its beter to do it right the first time

QFT!
AKA It's usually cheaper to do it right than to do it wrong & have to fix your prior eF ups.

qft! ? .......

Quoted For Truth!

lol k

hahaha lol I think I know that guy too.

as do i, i think its a kootenay thing, alot of ppl know haha

as your saying about all this stuff needed, i wonder what stuff is in my motor because two owners before i owned my car the b20b bottom end was swapped in, and when i replaced my timing belt recently, i ordered one for a 98 crv (b20)

It's also a kootney thing that there are lot of great b20 setups around also....

Yeah... I'm "that guy" who didnt do the arp studs, and learned the hard way that b16 headbolts are too short by around 1/2 an inch. They will thread in AND torque correctly, but just dont engage the blocks threads enough to be safe. Wrecked a perfectly good b20 block when I put 13 psi of boost on it and tore 4 of the bolthole threads! I still have the spiral of aluminum out of one of the holes sitting on my desk as a reminder to not be a cheapass!

If someone else can learn from my mistakes, I'd say that it wasnt a total waste

Buy a blackworks or GE 84mm bore conversion kit, arp studs, appropriate timing belt & water pump, and you will love your new motor, and it will love you back with torque and a great top-end charge! Just limit yourself to around 78-7900 rpm for your rev limit on your tuning.

do i need to use b series clutch cable ?

Thats like me not doing rod bolts and having my car hit rev limiter more then idle. That ended up with a rod cab rod bolt with the nut still attatched and having to cut that mess out of my rad with a pair of tin snips

wat year of civic is this going into fred